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Text 17833, 139 rader
Skriven 2007-07-10 08:45:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av DAVE SACERDOTE
Ärende: HOW TO GET A 801
========================
 DS> It may well be corporate beancounting, but it's deeper than garden-
 DS> variety beancounting.  The flavor of the dogs themselves have changed
 DS> quite noticeably, and they are an order of magnitude saltier than they
 DS> were.  Really salty.  Nautical saltiness.

Really salty might well mean that the formula was changed
to increase shelf life: maybe the relatively high price
caused slower turnover, which caused spoilage, which
attracted the accountants' attention, which ...

 DS> Interestingly, the exact same thing happened here with grocery sales
 DS> of Nathan's - many of the stores here ran BOGO or even BOG2 sales
 DS> on them, then they went on clearance, then they were gone for a few
 DS> months...then they were back (though not at any higher prices than
 DS> Sabrett's or other (perceived) "premium" hot dog.)

This would fit in nicely with my scenario. Quality complaints
led to dumping, and then the factory was retooled, and voila.

 DS> I've given them one other chance since then, but they are still 
 DS> nasty and now I won't buy them at all.

If my idea is right, it'll be a permanent change, I mean as
permanent as you can expect from a company beginning its
downward spiral. I suppose the Kosher houses are the bastion
of quality; of course there's Hebrew National, but Shofar has
a decent product for a few cents less per dog.

Bavette
cat: celebrity, main
servings: 4

h - For the steak
Four pieces trimmed outside skirt steak, 10 oz each
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 c canola oil
4 Tb unsalted butter
4 c thinly sliced shallots
4 ts minced thyme
h - for the red wine jus (Makes 1 qt)
1 bottle red wine, such as cabernet sauvignon
1 c diced (1/2") Spanish onions
1 c sliced (1/2" thick) peeled carrots
1 c sliced (1/4" thick) leeks
-  white and light green parts only
1 c sliced (1/4" thick) shallots
1 c sliced (1/4" thick) button mushrooms
- and/or mushroom stems
3 thyme sprigs
6 Italian parsley sprigs
2 bay leaves
1/2 ts black peppercorns
3 lg garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
5 c veal stock
h - for the salad
2 oz (to 3 oz) watercress, large stems removed
2 ts minced shallots
1 ts minced Italian parsley
1 ts minced tarragon
1 ts minced chives
1 ts minced chervil
Extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 c Red Wine Jus, warmed

Skirt Steak with Caramelized Shallots and Red Wine Jus

The bavette is a variation of the classic steak frites, and
every bit as satisfying. The skirt steak is quickly sauteed
and served medium-rare with heaps of shallots: About 1 c per
portion, a mat of them, richly caramelized, is spread atop
the beef. A red wine jus takes the place of the herb butter,
echoing the deep, rich flavors of the meat. Skirt steak, cut
from along the ribs of the animal, is fibrous. When you order
it from your butcher, keep in mind that there is an inside
skirt steak as well as an outside steak. At Bouchon, we use
the outside cut; thicker and more uniform in size, it can
stand up to longer cooking, giving you time to baste the meat
and flavor it with shallots and thyme.

Make the steak:

Preheat the oven to 375F (190C).

Season both sides of the steaks generously, keeping in mind
that the salt and pepper will also season the shallots as
they cook.

Heat two large skillets over medium-high heat until hot. Add
2 Tb canola oil to each skillet. When the oil is hot, add 1
Tb butter to each skillet, swirling them to brown the butter.
Add the steaks and sear the first side for about 1 1/2 min,
or until nicely browned. Turn the steaks to brown the second
side, tilt the skillets, and use a spoon to baste the meat
with the oil and butter. After about 3 min, total cooking,
remove the skillets from the heat and transfer the meat to
a waiting pan. Set aside while you cook the shallots.

Set the skillets, with the butter and oil, over medium heat.
Add half the sliced shallots to each skillet, toss them in
the oil and butter, and cook for about 2 min, until they
have started to soften. Combine all the shallots in one
skillet, add the remaining 2 Tb butter and the thyme,
reduce the heat, and cook gently until the shallots are
completely softened and golden brown. Season to taste
with salt and pepper and cook for an additional 2 to 3 min
to caramelize.

Stir any juices that have accumulated around the steaks into
the shallots, then spread the shallots over the steaks. Place
in the oven to cook for about 5 min, or until the steaks are
medium-rare.

Make the Red Wine Jus

Combine all the ingredients except the stock in a wide heavy
saucepan or pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce
the heat and simmer for 45 to 50 min, or until the wine has
reduced almost to a glaze. Add the veal stock, bring to a
simmer, and simmer for 30 min.

Prepare an ice bath. Strain the jus several times through a
fine-mesh strainer or a colander lined with cheesecloth. Cool
in the ice bath, stirring occasionally. (Refrigerate for up to
3 days, or freeze for longer storage).

Make the salad and serve

Place the watercress in a bowl and toss with the minced
shallots, herbs, and a drizzle of olive oil. Season with
salt and pepper.

Place the steaks on serving plates and spoon about 2 Tb jus
alongside each one. Divide the salad among the plates.

Source: Thomas Keller
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