Text 21456, 120 rader
Skriven 2009-03-02 21:37:00 av JIM WELLER (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av DAVE DRUM
Ärende: Re: Trains, Planes & Auto
=================================
-=> Quoting Dave Drum to Jim Weller <=-

 DD> about half the Canuckistan fare.
 DD> But I'd bet that the Via trains are cleaner, the staff *much* less
 DD> surly, and the dining car grub better than the Scamtrak version.

I haven't travelled by rail for quite a while but the standards were
certainly high a few years ago and the dining quite luxurious.

MMMMM-----Meal-Master - formatted by MMCONV  2.10

     Title: Pasta Alla Gricia And Variations
Categories: Italian, Pasta, Bacon, Cheese, Info
  Servings: 1 text file

           Carbonara, 
           Cacio e Pepe, 
           Amatriciana and 
           Gricia
      2 oz guanciale
      2 tb grated Pecorino Romano
      4 oz dried pasta

If you spend any extended time in Rome, these four pasta dishes are
sure to become familiar and beloved friends. Together they form the
backbone of primi choices at every trattoria in the Eternal City,
where the locals have strong, vocal opinions on where to find the
best execution of each, never all at one place.

Each recipe bows to the Roman palate, where Pecorino Romano is
favored over Parmigiano-Reggiano and guanciale is preferred to
pancetta. There are only five or six additional ingredients needed
to make all four dishes, and I learned that my Roman friends keep
these components on hand at all times, ready to turn a chance
encounter on the street into an impromptu meal at home

Pasta alla Gricia is the least-known member of the group, but hands
down my favorite. I can't think of a better delivery vehicle for
pasta than a perfect balance of cured pork and cheese, so here's a
primer on how to make this Roman classic.

The first and most important step to making authentic pasta alla
gricia is starting with the right ingredients. I'm sorry, but I have
to be a purist here and insist on guanciale, or cured pork jowl,
which has a unique, intensely piggy flavor, and Pecorino Romano, the
hard, tangy grating cheese made from sheep's milk. With so few
components at play, substitutions are not minor. Pancetta and
Parmigiano will make a tasty dish, but you cannot call it alla
gricia, for the simple reason that their flavors are quite
different.

The same goes for add-ins, so there should be no garlic used here,
nor any onion, herbs, or wine. No. None. Nooooooo. 

I've seen these ingredients included in some recipes, but in Rome
this is a deal breaker, as much of an affront as tossing frozen peas
or heavy cream into Carbonara. Creative license is allowed, however,
when it comes to the pasta. I've enjoyed bucatini, spaghetti,
ditalini, mezze rigatoni, penne, and even gnocchi served alla
Gricia, and they all work just fine. 

You'll need about 1 1/2 to 2 ounces of guanciale and two tablespoons
of grated Pecorino Romano for every four ounces of dried pasta.
Begin by bringing your well-salted pasta water to a boil. While the
water is heating, slice the guanciale thinly into narrow strips,
wide ribbons, or even a fine dice, the cut can depend on how you
want the guanciale to mingle with the pasta you've chosen. (I like
to bite into my guanciale, so I chose the ribbons.) 

Place the guanciale in a cold saute pan with a tablespoon or two of
olive oil and place over medium heat; the olive oil helps to render
the fat evenly and acts as a conduit, transferring the flavor from
the pan to the pasta.

Drop the pasta into the water as you slowly saute the guanciale. The
goal here is to slowly soften the fat, keeping it translucent; avoid
letting it turn brown and crisp, or the pleasure of biting into
those soft, juicy, fatty parts will be lost. When the guanciale has
softened, add a small splash of water from the pasta pot. 

Lower the heat, and keep dribbling in spoonfuls of pasta cooking
water as it evaporates, just enough to keep the guanciale moist. The
starchy water is a key element to the finished dish; it combines
with the fat to form the "sauce" for the pasta.

When the pasta reaches that perfectly al dente texture, scoop out
about a cup of the cooking water and set it aside. Quickly drain
your pasta and add it to the pan, then turn up the heat and listen
for some sizzle. Toss the pasta vigorously, coating it with the
guanciale and rendered fat, and add a small splash of the reserved
pasta cooking water if necessary to bring it all together.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the grated Pecorino Romano
cheese, but avoid the temptation to add too much. The cheese is
there to help bind the guanciale to pasta and add that perfect,
sheep-y backnote. Grind some black pepper into the pan, toss well
and serve immediately on a heated plate. Ecco! There you have it:
simplicity, balance and harmony on a plate. Enjoy it with a glass of
wine from the Castelli Romani, if you can. Once you've mastered
Pasta alla Gricia, you're on the right path. Add an egg, and you've
got Carbonara; take away the guanciale, add more cheese, black
pepper and pasta water for Cacio e Pepe; incorporate sliced onion
and tomato for a fine Amatriciana. 

Posted by Gina DePalma

From: Serious Eats
 
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Cheers

YK Jim


... All normal people love meat.

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