Text 32112, 99 rader
Skriven 2009-12-11 22:57:06 av DAVE SACERDOTE (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av MICHAEL LOO
Ärende: no and yes 497
======================
ML> Skin thighs; cut skin into ribbons or other small pieces.
ML> Render skin slowly in a heavy skillet over low heat. When
ML> pieces are crisp on both sides, remove to absorbent paper;
ML> salt lightly and eat.

RH> Are you sure Dave Sac didn't invent this?  Then again, he might have
RH> used bacon fat.  I'm not sure how well it would mix with the sherry and
RH> tarragon though. 

ML> I was doing that kind of thing probably before Clean Dave
ML> was born. 

Probably not before I was born, but probably before I shook my first 
skillet.  I reckon there's only about 12 or so difference in our ages.
Anyway, I couldn't have possibly invented something like that, which 
is one of those universally delicious things so basic that we're almost
hardwired to "think it up."



Bacon fat would be supernumerary in a dish like
-> this (there are a few - very few - foods not enhanced by
-> bacon), but it would go okay with the sherry and tarragon.
-> 
-> PAN-ROASTED DUCK BREASTS WITH CREAMED WHITE CORN AND MORELS
-> cat: New York, main, celebrity, probably not better with bacon
-> serves: 6
-> 
-> 7 large ears of sweet white corn, shucked
-> 4 oz morels
-> 3 Tb butter
-> 1 ts finely minced shallots
-> 1 ts finely minced chives
-> 1 ts finely minced parsley
-> 3 whole boneless duck breasts
-> - (Liberty Valley or Long Island),
-> - halved and trimmed of sinew and excess fat
-> Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
-> 1 Tb heavy cream
-> 
-> Cut the kernels from 4 ears of corn. Place them in a blender and
-> puree, adding just enough water (1-2 Tb) to allow them to
-> puree. Transfer the puree to a chinois or fine mesh strainer set over
-> a bowl. Press lightly on the corn to extract the juice, but do not
-> force the puree through the strainer. There should be about 1/3 c
-> corn juice; set aside.
-> 
-> Fill a medium saucepan half-full of water, and bring to a boil.
-> Make an ice bath by filling a bowl with a mixture of ice and water.
-> Cut kernels from remaining 3 ears of corn; there should be 2 c
-> kernels. Add kernels to boiling water, and blanch 1 min.
-> Transfer kernels to ice bath, then dry on paper towels; set aside.
-> 
-> Trim stems from morels. Soak them in warm water, changing the water
-> several times until it is clear. If some of the mushrooms are larger
-> than the others, cut them in half for a uniform size. Place a skillet
-> over medium heat, and add 1 Tb butter. Shake excess water from
-> the mushrooms, and add to the hot butter. Saute until the liquid has
-> evaporated and the mushrooms are tender. If necessary, add a
-> Tb of water to the pan. Add shallots, chives and parsley, and
-> saute 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and reserve.
-> 
-> Remove the small tender from each half of duck breast, to permit
-> the breast to cook evenly. Score the skin in a cross-hatch pattern,
-> deep enough for the excess fat to drain as the duck cooks, but not so
-> deep as to cut the meat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place a
-> large skillet over low heat. Place the breasts in the pan skin-side
-> down, and saute 7 min, allowing most of the fat to drain and the
-> skin to brown. Spoon excess fat from the pan, and turn duck breasts
-> over. Saute 3-4 min to complete the cooking. Transfer breasts
-> to a platter lined with paper towels, and let rest 3 min.
-> 
-> While the breasts are resting, transfer the corn juice to a small,
-> heavy saucepan. Place the pan over medium heat, and whisk until it
-> thickens. (The starch present in the corn will cause it to thicken
-> quickly.) Do not allow it to boil, or it may curdle. When the liquid
-> has thickened, reduce the heat to low. Whisk in the remaining 2 Tb
-> butter and the cream. Stir in the blanched kernels and the
-> morel mixture. Keep warm.
-> 
-> To serve, place an equal amount of creamed corn and morels on each
-> of six plates. Top each portion with a duck breast, and serve
-> immediately.
-> 
-> Thomas Keller, NY Times 7/7/99
-> 
-> ___ Blue Wave/386 v2.30


---
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Restaurant Reviews.

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