Text 3623, 101 rader
Skriven 2013-08-17 22:39:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av JIM WELLER
Ärende: reduction tips 10
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 -=> Jim Weller said to Dave Drum <=-
 
 JW> Title: Sauce Reduction Tips

I'm more interested in cost reduction tips or weight
reduction tips ...

 JW> Flavorful aromatic compounds reaching your nose are leaving the pot.

True, but if you've compounded things right, the darker
less volatile aspects concentrate into deliciousness.
It is often a good idea to add herbals and similar
flavorings both at the initial mixing (where they lend
their depth to the sauce) and a dose close to the end
(so that much of that nose-tingling aroma remains).

 JW> Vigorous boiling can exacerbate this effect as it agitates the
 JW> molecules even harder. A sauce reduced quickly will be flatter
 JW> tasting and less flavorful than a sauce reduced slowly.

Not so. The flavor components are different, but there
is still plenty of goodness in a hotly made sauce, and
to me mostly it is more interesting than a slow-simmered
sauce. There is a reason why restaurant kitchens use
extreme heat in the making of many sauces (yes, slow
cooking in some, but these would be sauces I don't
prefer).

  When
 JW> reducing any liquid for a sauce, it's best to go low and slow.

Seldom. I'll bet that this person also stands up for
heavy browning of meats to add flavor, an incompatible
view. The author would maybe say, oh, but that's
because of Dr. Maillard, but in fact the same argument
goes for a sauce as a joint of lamb. 

 JW> Reducing Alcohol: With wine the vapor coming off will be a mixture
 JW> of alcohol and water. Reducing the wine separately, then diluting
 JW> the resulting reduction, is a far more efficient way of minimizing
 JW> the overall final alcohol content of the dish than attempting to
 JW> reduce the alcohol after combining it with the remaining liquids.

This ignores the chemical reactions between the alcohol
and other components in the food, some of which changes are
desired. Apparent efficiency is not everything.

--mm
Rack of lamb Provencal
cat: main, airline
serves: 9

9 center cut 2-bone lamb rack portions
- 7-8 oz ea, trimmed
1/4 ts salt
pepper
2 oz olive oil
5 Tb Dijon mustard
1 oz melted butter
2 oz shallots minced
1/2 oz fresh parsley chopped
1/3 oz garlic minced
1/6 oz herbes de Provence*
4 oz fresh white breadcrumbs

* blend of thyme, rosemary, bay leaf, basil, savory

Season meat; brown quickly in oil, searing well on all sides.
Chill. Spread mustard on sides and top.

Mix remaining ingredients. Press this mixture over sides and
top of lamb racks. Roast at 400F to internal temp of 130F for
medium rare. Serve with caramelized pearl onion sauce.

Jacques Pepin, Hemispheres Magazine 10-99
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--mm
Caramelized pearl onion sauce
cat: garnish, airline
serves: 9

4 1/2 oz pearl onions in sweet wine, drained
1 oz sugar
4 1/2 oz Pinot Noir
1 oz brandy
1 pt aromatized lamb stock
1/4 oz Dijon mustard
1/2 Tb cornstarch in
1 Tb water

Caramelize sugar over med-high heat. Add onions and coat well.
Add wine and reduce to almost nothing. Add brandy and flame.
Add stock, mustard, and cornstarch water, reduce heat, simmer
5 min, stirring. Serve with lamb.

Jacques Pepin, Hemispheres Magazine 10-99

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